Eggplant Hunan, with upgrades
>> Friday, November 13, 2009
The first time we ever had genuine Hunan-style cooking was in New York's Chinatown back in the Eighties, when Ed Koch was mayor. Hunan Joy was the restaurant, which was known to be a favorite of the mayor's (his office was only a few blocks away). We spent two weeks in the city every December and never missed having lunch at least once at Hunan Joy, just to order their version of eggplant Hunan. It was a simple, no-frills, family place, with the dining rooms up a flight of stairs. Two tables overlooked Mott Street near the Canal intersection, and we usually were lucky enough to be seated at one. At least, that's how memory serves. Eggplant Hunan in Chinatown will always be seen in a gray December light with the flash and noise and bustle of Mott Street at Christmas time at our elbows.
The version of this peppery dish that we can do today is reminiscent of its inspiration -- we can use many of the same basic ingredients -- but the eggplants are different (Hunan Joy used the long white kind, ours are the dumpy purple ones) and we don't have the fiery pepper pods. Still, the essential idea is preserved: eggplant braised in a pepper sauce.
Among the many ways in the world to prepare eggplant, Juliette and I have settled on braising. This really is the simplest, most direct method. Just chop the eggplant into bite-sized pieces and add them to the stew pot, where you've already put a chopped onion with some olive oil.
At this point, Juliette steps in and works her magic by adding curry, curcumin, cayenne pepper, garlic puree, miso, soy sauce, and raisins marinated in red wine. All of these ingredients bring to the blend their particular flavors and smells, of course, but it's worth remembering that every element contributes to the nutritional value of the dish.
Just put a lid on it and let it simmer on low heat until the eggplant is cooked and has absorbed the spice- and herb-flavored liquids. If you want to give the concoction a good protein boost, add some tofu, either crumbled or cut into cubes, depending on which kind you have on hand.
Serve with rice if you like, or with quinoa.
The version of this peppery dish that we can do today is reminiscent of its inspiration -- we can use many of the same basic ingredients -- but the eggplants are different (Hunan Joy used the long white kind, ours are the dumpy purple ones) and we don't have the fiery pepper pods. Still, the essential idea is preserved: eggplant braised in a pepper sauce.
Among the many ways in the world to prepare eggplant, Juliette and I have settled on braising. This really is the simplest, most direct method. Just chop the eggplant into bite-sized pieces and add them to the stew pot, where you've already put a chopped onion with some olive oil.
At this point, Juliette steps in and works her magic by adding curry, curcumin, cayenne pepper, garlic puree, miso, soy sauce, and raisins marinated in red wine. All of these ingredients bring to the blend their particular flavors and smells, of course, but it's worth remembering that every element contributes to the nutritional value of the dish.
Just put a lid on it and let it simmer on low heat until the eggplant is cooked and has absorbed the spice- and herb-flavored liquids. If you want to give the concoction a good protein boost, add some tofu, either crumbled or cut into cubes, depending on which kind you have on hand.
Serve with rice if you like, or with quinoa.
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