Monster Mash: proteins with lentils, azuki flakes, quinoa

>> Sunday, January 31, 2010

I’m not sure of all the details, but as best as I can remember, the naming of Monster Mash went like this.

Juliette one day (this was a while back, a couple of months, in fact) said she wanted to design a dish for us that would be easy to prepare and give us the maximum punch in terms of proteins relative to mass. “The most bang for your buck,” I suggested, and Juliette nodded yes (but did not make the obvious joke).

With a little trial and practically no error, she did just what she set out to do and we were soon enjoying a tasty preparation which could be adapted in many ways. Basic stuff. “Simply mash,” said Juliette. And so it was for many weeks. What to have as a hot dish for evening tapas? How about a bowl of The Mash heated up? Good idea. How about some of The Mash to go with the steamed broccoli? Excellent!

Then one day I think both of us had had it with calling it The Mash. This concoction, which had become a staple of our diet, needed a its own name, an appellation worthy of its role in our nourishment. We mulled it for a minute and then, I swear, we both hit on the same name.

What else? Monster Mash.

We laughed, of course, at our memories of the old comedy song by one-time hit maker Bobby “Boris” Pickett. “How old you think it is?” asked Juliette, winking slyly. “Don’t ask,” said I. But Monster Mash it remains to this day.

How you do it.

In a three liter sauce pan (the same one you use to boil quinoa or rice) with a good snug cover, measure about equal portions of coral lentils, azuki flakes, and quinoa (less than a cup each) to make a layer about a half-inch thick. Add add enough water to cover twice and set on high heat to begin warming while you add:
  • a dollop of olive oil (use almost as much as you like, it's good for you)
  • a good soup spoon of miso
  • a good half a soup spoon of garlic paste
  • about a teaspoon (more or less to your taste) of: curry, curcumin, dry ginger powder, and cinnamon. Cayenne to taste.
  • Sesame seeds (toasted), two or three soup spoons.

  • A good half cup or so of raisins marinated in red wine.

The trick, Juliette tells me, is keeping an  eye on the pot. As the dried goods soak up water, more needs to be added and the mixture stirred often to keep everything mixed. Once the mixture is soft, it’s done.

Juliette likes to add some tamari at the end, to complement the woodsy flavor of the beans and grains and the tickle your tongue with the picante tang of the cayenne. I’m glad that she does this. In fact, I’m glad and thankful every time she says “Time for a pot of Monster Mash.” Glad and thankful that she thought it up and is patient enough to scoot back to the kitchen now and then to check on it.

Monster Mash keeps well in the frigo for several days, but it probably won’t last that long.


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The Weekly Pannier, January 30, 2010

This week's pannier: eggs, lettuce, sprouted lentils, chou Romanesco, broccoli, jerusalem artichoke, potatoes, onions, bananas, oranges, grapefruit.

The sprouted lentils are the pleasant surprise this week. With sprouts you get additional omegas and other health-inducing stuff, plus the softened lentils are quite tasty. I made an omelet with the whole box and Juliette applauded.


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One good reason: toxic chemicals

>> Friday, January 29, 2010

One good reason for choosing to go all vegetarian AND all-bio is this: the chemicals we left behind once we crossed over, Juliette and I. Every day it seems like a new report comes out that some government agency is commencing a study to provide scientific evidence about the effect of chemicals in the consumer environment on health. Plastics come immediately to mind, of course, so a big part of getting away from pesticides and hormones in food also makes you more aware than ever just how profoundly affected we are by everyday things like cleaning products or the lining of metal cans for beverages and foods. The latest news has to do with new FDA policy on BPA, one of the truly ubiquitous concoctions of our plasticoated lives. Read about it and then ask, why did it take until now?

The point is, it does not take long before you get almost compulsive about the toxic in your world. As well you should be, of course (as Juliette is always quick to remind me), but keep a level head about it at the same time. Yes, yes, I say. You’ve got a good point and I agree, no need to be instantly alarmist, but then I stumble on a bit of news like the BPA story. I found myself pausing over this news, wondering why nobody has done this kind of study before now. Seems like basic stuff, to me. A moral duty, you might say, for the people charged with keeping an eye on such things. So, was it perversity (incompetence, not caring, disdain, bordom) or corruption (corporate or otherwise)?

The FDA, Juliette points out, claims that the potential for trouble with BPA has only recently come to light, hence the push to get a new study done.

Well, it little matters at this stage WHY the study hasn't been done, just that facts be marshaled now, actions taken. You know.

The best thing to do, meanwhile, is avoid plastics or any other chemical whose name has numbers in it.



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Thinking about proteins

>> Thursday, January 28, 2010

Here is an article on the question that bothers many people who are thinking of changing their diet to a vegetable-centered one: what about the proteins? Will I get enough? What happens to my health if I don't get enough? Will I become sickly and pale and waste away until one day my cells just give up and I collapse into a puddle of goo? Kathy Freston's article on the AlterNet site will calm your concerns (it did mine, but not Juliette's -- she's always telling me not to worry so much). For anyone thinking about going vegetarian but can think of a multitude of reasons for not taking the leap, her article on changing your diet is worth reading and may even help get you started on the path to well-being.

To sum it up: eat plenty of beans, grains, and seeds. Protein foods made from soybeans are plentiful: tofu, etc. If eggs are on your list, cook up an omelet. Smoked salmon is a good way to get protein and vitamin B 12. So quit fretting, which can lead to hypertension and other maladies you don't need and can easily avoid.

Kathy Freston's summation is worth quoting in full.

When you consider your choices--heart disease, colon cancer, plus-size pants, melting ice caps, gale force storms, and animal suffering vs. good health, energy, a trim physique, a livable planet, compassion, and tasty, diverse foods--it's clear that going vegetarian is an excellent choice as we move toward living a more conscious life.

Well-being for the whole system (mind, body, etc.) is based on living a conscious life, focused and mindful. If you do that, the air smells a whole lot fresher, because you will go on and eliminate all the chemicals. Go on. Be obsessive.




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The Weekly Pannier, January 23, 2010

>> Wednesday, January 27, 2010

There's a pannier this week -- and a good one it is -- but no photo. We had a social engagement Saturday and Sunday had a Sleep In and Take the Day Off kind of day. Once the routine was interrupted and the food was either eaten forthwith or dispersed, getting a photo of the whole thing became an impossible task. Nothing looked different from normal, so I'll leave it to the imagination to fill iln the images: eggs, beets, leeks, kohlrabi, Jerusalem artichoke (topinambour), lettuce, apples, kiwis, broccoli. We continue to be grateful to Fortuna for spinning these baskets of organic food our way.


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Butternut soup, no frills

>> Thursday, January 21, 2010

A couple of days ago we decided to give that butternut we’ve been saving a chance to do its stuff -- and with no frills. We have been enjoying a return to more normal January weather: chilly but not freezing, cloudy but not overcast all day. In fact, we’ve even become connoisseurs of midday sun and take advantage of the brief appearance of few hours of sun every day. Even the village dogs were let out for an afternoon of dogging around, so why not us?

Here is a good soup for days like these in mid-January. Just cut the butternut into little spoonsized pieces. Saute a cut-up onion and then add the butternut and braise covered until soupy. Keep the spices and whatnot simple: marinated raisins, almond milk, etc. The raisins will pick up the butternut’s hint of sweetness without going overboard. If you have fresh orange peel, slivers of the zest, chopped finely, add a nice aroma and zingy little surprise on the tongue that goes well with butternut.

Stewed apples are also a good condiment to have à table.

We served the soup with a salad of lettuce and spinach with slivers of topinambour.


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Sweet potatoes (patate douce) with ginger and garlic

>> Sunday, January 17, 2010

This is one of our favorite ways to prepare sweet potatoes: cubed and roasted with a glaze of olive oil mixed with strong herbs and spices, in this case ginger and garlic.

Mince garlic, ginger, pine nuts as finely as you can, then crush the mix in a mortar. When the mix begins to soften -- the pressed oils will begin to form a paste -- add some olive oil and continue working the mix with the pestle. For a good-sized potato about a quarter cup of olive oil.

In a tian, spread out the diced sweet potato, pour on the garlic-ginger mix, and turn the potato bits with a wooden spoon until each bit is covered with oil and dotted with flecks of ginger, garlic, etc. Put into a pre-heated oven (around 150 to 175 C.) and let it cook for about a half hour. Remove from the oven , test for doneness, and stir with the wooden spoon. For crispy skins on the potato bits, turn the heat up for the final burst of cooking. In the end, the bits should be soft on the inside and beginning to get crusty on the outside, but, of course, this is a matter of taste. My sensibility runs toward crunchier, which also means that the garlic-ginger mix is well-cooked to the point of sublime intensity.


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Perfect braise pot for winter: kohlrabi plus

Briaise: kohlrabi, carrot, black radish, topinambour, chou. Amazingly enough, this combination has magical qualities, including a mellow aroma and smooth texture. Is it the kohlrabi that gives it this gentle touch on the palate?

Served with stewed apples (what a name! makes you think of inebriate apples staggering down the street) and sweet potatoes with garlic and ginger.

more to come on this


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Benefits of going organic vegetarian: new worlds for the expat

One of the perennial problems for the expatriot -- such as Americans living in France, like Juliette and me -- is connectedness, how to find community in your new home.

an essay in the works

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Cold Wave Lentil Soup

>> Saturday, January 16, 2010

(I realized when I sat down to enter this week's pannier that I had not posted in over a week, in spite of having written a couple of entries on my writing program. I simply forgot to make blogs out of these thrilling adventures. This is the first one, another and maybe more will follow.)

Although posted today, this entry was written a week ago.

France, along with much of Europe, is under the deepest cold wave in decades. Depending on where you are, the record low temperatures may go back as far as the 1870s, as they have in Perpignan. We’re lucky here in Catalan France, where the geography and climate create a pocket of coastal plain protected from the severest weather by mountains. We have had a few centimeters of snow, and even more rain, off and on. For most of yesterday, our street’s thin blanket of snow retained its pristine texture: blank, white, and crusty on top.

When it gets really cold, the way it has been around here for the past few days (really cold around here means zero centigrade, plus or minus a few degrees), you think of a good, hearty lintel soup. Lucky for us, we have a good larder of winter roots this year, so we were able to try out a different combination of ingredients, getting away from the standard lintel soup with potatoes.

Into the braise pot I threw the following (after dicing, of course): An onion, one large parsnip, a medium potato, a large black radish, two stalks of celery. For oils, herbs, and spices, Juliette adds these: four whole cloves of garlic, one soup spoon of miso, a soup spoon of curcumin, celery salt, cayenne pepper.

The lentils we have on hand came in one of the Weekly Panniers, and we’re pretty sure that the lentils were grown by the bio farmers who pack each week’s basket. The grains are dense and dark green and turn the soup stock into a complex broth.

Water, wine, what else?



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The Weekly Pannier, January 16, 2010

This week's pannier offered only one new item, the sauerkraut (choucroute) but many opportunities to try some new recipes. Having the fresh greens is always a bonus, so we were glad to see the head of lettuce and the bag of spinach. The presence of so many oranges and pears also brings a smile, as does the reappearance of old standbys, potatoes, carrots, fennel.

In this week's pannier: eggs, fresh spinach, lettuce, bulb fennel, carrots, sauerkraut, potatoes, oranges, pears.


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The Weekly Pannier, January 9, 2010

>> Sunday, January 10, 2010

It is almost too cold to type these words, but not quite. Juliette agreed to let me go out last evening to get this week's pannier, to plunge into the driving sleet and icy rain. Out on the street, I'm alone. It's usually a busy scene on the main street at the old city gate where we usually pass on our way to the vigneron's house and cave: smokers talking in front of the PMU bar, last minute customers rushing to the pharmacy, the librarian beginning to close up the town's storefront bibliotheque for the night, the women at the dress shop heading home to family. But tonight, it's just me and, when I arrive chez J., another cold-nosed soul clutching his black box full of provisions. I imagine we are like characters in The Gold Rush, only slightly less bemused as we pass at the door saying nothing beyond bon soir and bonne année.

In the Weekly Pannier this time: eggs, lettuce, chou pointu, celery, butternut squash, carrots, sweet potato, apples, and clementines.


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Potage of the week: céleri rave and carrot with topinambour, ginger, and almond butter

>> Tuesday, January 5, 2010

On a gray, cold, and rainy January day, this is a good soup for giving the house an aroma soft yet stimulating. We started out to do a lentil soup with céleri rave, carrots, and potatoes, which is a good standby that will nourish and warm you right up, but when Juliette saw the creamy broth with the white and orange bits floating around, she said, “Let’s try something different. Keep it simple. Leave out the lintels and potatoes and just make a soup of this. Really focus on these two main ingredients and what goes into the broth.”

So this is the potage of the week. Saute a chopped onion just until the pieces begin to soften. Add to this: diced céleri rave, diced carrots, marinated raisins, and topinambour chopped into tiny bits, with miso, curcumin, almond milk, and a spoonful of almond butter.

Two hours later.

The soup had a particular flavor, one that we could not match. A sweet-sour taste, somewhat like but not. Celery, yes. But if you were blindfolded and asked to ID the flavor, you might not come up with celery. It was the sauce that got our attention. What if we mushed the soup into a volute? That would be the thing. And add some shortgrain Italian rice.



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Braise mix: navet, potato, leek, fennel bulb, curly cabbage, and apple

>> Sunday, January 3, 2010

The good thing about the braise method is that you can cook up a damn good pot of food with almost anything you have on hand. Take today, for instance. We’re well into January already, but we still have days to go until we receive our next pannier of fruits and legumes, which means that we have an odd assortment of ingredients. What we came up with is this, which will give your system a winter jolt of vitamins and minerals, plus a little protein.

So, it’s just a matter of chopping everything into small bits and soon the braise pot is filled to the brim with navet, potato, leek, fennel bulb, curly cabbage, apple, and some crumbled tofu. The basic set added over the next couple of hours as it simmers on the stove: miso, garlic spread, bio curry mix, curcumin, cayenne pepper, cinnamon, raisins.

This particular braise mix had a distinctive flavor reminiscent of fruits rather than roots, probably because of the apples and raisins, but also from the cabbage, which was mild and slightly sweet. This is a reminder that every preparation of every recipe turns out different from any other, for any number of factors, including the quality and condition of the ingredients. Seasonal ingredients means that you are using sources close to home, and that is good. By reducing the dependance on long-transit groceries, we’re conserving energy and eating healthier. Even if the aubergines are bio (on sale now at the local supermarket chain), they’re from a long ways off, this time of year.

At the moment here in Catalan country, we are at the peak of winter produce, so anything cooked with potatoes and navets, black radish and céleri rave is going to be fresh. This means better flavor as well as better nutrition. There is some coefficient probably of the correlation between the time a head of broccoli is cut off the stem in the garden and when it is finally eaten. The quicker and less-processed you can be, the better.

We had this with a good serving of azuki beans. The flavors went together very well, with the surprising sweetness of the braise mix contrasting with the salty, earthy flavor of the beans.

This is very good to have on a cold, gray winter day, such as the one we are having right now. In fact, it has been so dark and cold for the past few days, we have hardly been out at all. We aren’t the only ones. Not a sound have we heard from people the street, and only the occasional car passing by down at the corner on the main route through town.


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Endives braised with fennel bulb and Jerusalem artichoke: the sauce is the thing

>> Saturday, January 2, 2010

Waiting for everyone else to catch up. We have been operating on the assumption that the new year began on or about the twenty-first of December. The interval between then and the official date is when the body and mind adjust to brighter light and more of it, increasing day by day. The dark days of the soul are over, but it takes a few days for the everyday consciousness to get past the somber, claustrophobic crabbiness that comes upon you those last few days when it seems that the end of time is arriving faster than you had expected and you panic. Then one afternoon you walk out and find a bench in the open air where you let the sun do its wonders.

This is a good day for an omelet, something easy. We discussed the traditions of our childhood, with Black-eyed Peas and Hog Jowl being at the top of the list of New Year’s Day Good Luck dishes to avoid. Instead, we’re braising a pot of assorted vegetables. The endive is taking center stage this time, thanks to the farmers who put together this week’s pannier. But we also have on hand some fennel bulbs and Jerusalem artichokes (topinambour). Chopping the topinambour into tiny morsels, the tinier the better, is worth the effort. These tiny bits will stay firm, almost crunchy, thus adding a chewy texture to an otherwise very soft mix.

A while later, when the vegs have had a chance to soften a bit, Juliette passes through the kitchen a couple of times and adds the following: a soup spoon of miso, half a glass of red wine, a half cup of raisins (and the wine they’ve been marinating in), a couple of scoops of almond powder, a block of tofu crumbled up, curcumin powder.

This is the basic idea. More refinement needed on the description.




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